Saturday, August 22, 2015

Car Service in Rome, Naples and the Amalfi Coast

I have known Josephine and Reno of Italy Limousine for six or seven years now and have never been disappointed in their drivers, their vehicles and the level of their service.  They are truly professional and honestly the best car service in Italy. 

 italylimousine.com

Here,s how it works;  
You contact them via e-mail with your 
1. flight info, 
2. arrival time, 
3. Flight Number, 
4. dates and of course 
5. your name and 
6. number in your party

Josephine arranges your proper transport from the airport to the city or the train station (Roma Termini) depending on your plans.

If you are traveling to the Amalfi Coast they can take you directly there (aprox $400) or your can take the train to Napoli and they will have another vehicle meet you there and take you directly to your hotel in Positano, Vico Equense, Sorrento, Massa Lubrense or any other of the stunning coastal towns.

I suggest the train to the station from the airport and the Limo/van to the Amalfi Coast

Avoid trying to take the train to Sorrento because you will have to change trains in Naples, likely get your pockets picked or your purse snatched because you were trying to save a few bucks and your trip will be soured.  I've never had a problem in Naples but I am very cautious because these types of crimes are typical there.  Pick pockets are expert in the beautiful city of Napoli.  I tell my friends, you will arrive at the station, head to your hotel and find that your underwear have been stolen!  Hey, it's better than DC where you get clubbed to near death, beaten, shot and robbed.  Be alert, watch each other.

Day trips:

Josephine can always count on me for an excursion tour to some crazy place I can't wait to see along the coast or on Mt Vesuvio.
My typical trip, whether alone or with others involves a ride to Tenuta Vannulo and Antica Macelleria both near Santa Cecelia in Eboli.  I love passing through the Mozzarella Country of Italy, you will see mozzarella store dotting the roadside, for every gas station there are 12 mozzarella stores.
Your visit to the Antica Macelleria, a simple butcher shop manned by Antonio and his Mama Piera selling the absolute best house made Soppresata, Salami, Mortadella in Italy.  The farm raised pigs Antonio uses have pedigrees like AKC Poodles!  You're in the Salerno region, this is where this stuff is the best in the world.
Your visit to Tenuta Vannulo will be the memory of a lifetime.  I met Sr Palmieri the proprietor of the farm many years ago, a true gentleman his farm spares nothing to provide the finest mozzarella, cheese and gelato that ever touched your lips.  The artistry in their leather shop is magnificent, try to leave without purchasing a bag, wallet or belt, good luck.
From here we shoot up to Cantina del Vesuvio for an amazing lunch and wine tasting with Maurizio.  Delicious and entertaining, the best pasta you'll have on your trip with Maurizio's fresh tomatoes  from his garden on the slopes of Vesuvio.  This make the notion of Farm to Table in the US the biggest joke in history.
Still time for a run to Herculaneum and a short ride back to Napoli.

Italy Limousine has taken me on ancestral tours to find relatives of friends and family, I recall my driver knocking on doors with me to find my friend Linda's family in the hills of Salerno.  We sat and ate with her cousins she had never seen and left with arms filled with Tirelli and goodies from their village.

Enjoy your vacation and call me if you need any help.




















Flavio ai Velavevodetto Osteria con Cucina

Flavio ai Velavevodetto Osteria con Cucina
Via Di Monte Testaccio 97/99
0153 Roma
tel 39 06.574.4194
www.FlavioVelavevodetto.com

I became frightened, scared and disappointed to se this restaurant on an American Travel Channel, to me this is the kiss of death for just about any restaurant.  Having been there less than a month ago I am happy to say it has not lost it's luster.  It is pleasant and elegant and far from the tourist center, there were plenty of locals and the food was excellent.
Flavio's is about a $20.00 cab ride out of the center and quite near one of my top two favorites, Felice a Testaccio.  The dining room is very nice and service is excellent and prompt.  Make a reservation!

Friday, August 21, 2015

Ten Things Not To Do In Italy

A few rules you don't want to break while in Italy and in Rome.

1.  There is no such thing as "The Spanish Steps"!!! What Americans call the Spanish Steps are actually "The Scalini della Trinita del   Monte" Or The Steps of the Trinity Del Monte. They terminate in  the"Piazza di Spagna" and hence the confusion.  It is appalling to Romans that tourists would not take the time to know the names of these very beautiful and popular attractions.

2.  Cappuccino is a breakfast drink, if your desire is to appear uncouth have one after 11am or better yet, after dinner.

3. Dunking!  Never in a restaurant, ok at home.  Non faccia la Scarpetta, or dunking is considered Morta di Fame (dying of hunger) and is reserved for beggars.  As a waiter once told me regarding a reques t by my nephew to switch a pasta shape for another in a different sauce, "Perhaps no one will see him" DOn't dunk!

3.  Bread and a plate of Olive Oil!  Horrors!  I once asked Giuliano Bugiali, Italian food historian and cook book author in what part of Italy this practice originated.  He told me "In America at the Olive Garden Restaurant"Sure you'll see it in Italy, particularly in heavily touristed areas but keep in mind Italians want you to be happy, happy people spend more money, trust that they are talking about you in the kitchen!

4. Cheese on seafood!  Never , ever do this, I don't care if your Nonna from New Jersey did it, it is just not done, strong flavors of seafoods mixed with that of cheese is a big NO NO!  If you want to look like a real Caffone go ahead, this is beyond looking unsophisticated it is the essence of being unsophisticated!

5.  Coke or Fanta with dinner, if you're going to be a slob may as well go all the way, for Italians, it's only water or wine with dinner, nothing else!  Nothing!

6.  Chicken in Pasta-Never not done, don't ask unless you're at Bucca de Beppo in Phoenix.  Chicken is served as a Secondo not a a topping and for the record pasta is never served on a plate like a potato!  Pasta always gets it's own plate, it is a course not a potato.

7.  Spaghetti and Meatballs does not exist in Italy, period.  You may get and pasta dish as a primo and meatballs as a secondo and dump them in the same bowl if you want to look like a barbarian but please don't.  Outside of tourist traps most Italians do not know what Fettucini Alfredo is, it wa likely also develop at Olive Garden.

8.  Well done Bistecca Florentina, the famous Florentine porterhouse steak from the white Chianina Bull of Tuscany is only prepared medium rare to rare, ask for it any other way and they won't serve it to you unless you are in a tourist trap and then it is likely not the Chianina Bull, the worlds tallest and heaviest bull raised for it's meat and as a draught animal.

9.  Olive Oil in it's original bottle - Italian restaurants are not allowed to transfer olive oil from one container to a serving bottle.  The Italian government want you to know what it is and where it came from.  In rural areas you may see this because the exception is their own production can be decanted.  It is likely in places like Rome and Florence this is not the case but in Napoli it is likely a restauranteur has a family production.

10.  No Doggie Bags - Please don't ask for a doggie bag, are you really going to eat your left over carbonara?  Where will you keep it?  Italians just don't take left over food home from a restaurant, especially back to their rooms.  Leave the bad behavior for the Germans, they have enough bad habits for everyone!

More Crazy food rules later




















Rome let's Have Lunch, Coffee and Treats

There are as many wonderful places to eat and dine in Rome as there are tourist traps, probably more but the traps are concentrated in the heavily touristed areas like the Piazza Navona, Pantheon etc.

Let's look at a few great spots to grab a quick lunch, a coffee or a fine chocolate that are not only great but inexpensive.

Il Faro Caffeteria Tavola Calda- Via in Aricone 78/79, Roma
      Around the corner from the Trevi Fountain this great little caffeteria is a favorite of local workers and mine for years.  Their stiffed tomatoes, a Roman specialty, are just delicious and one of the best I have had in Rome.  There are typically two to three pasta dishes the choose from and a baked pasta dish as well.  Expect plenty of grilled vegetables and other specials which change daily.
The prices, WOW! This will be your least expensive meal in Roma.

Castroni (Maxsim Srl)- Via Nationale 71, Roma.  I love walking down Via nazionale because it is not heavily touristed, I usually walk from my hotel near the Piazza Navona to the Piazza Venezia and then take a quick bus ride to The Piazza della Repubblica, stops are clearly posted on the bus stop signs and buses are a great way to get around Rome*) the I just wander down the hill that is Via Nazionale which is peppered with shops, a museum and planty of people watching.  Castor has some wicked good coffee, some say better than Saint Eustacio but I think they are both awesome.  There is a sitting area in the back and you may purchase lunch at the counter.  An assortment of panini, grilled vegetables and many other things can be had a Castroni.  Their specialty is specilties!  Candies, liquors, jams and jars of amazing condiments are a few steps down in their adjoining store.  Remember in Italy, you go to the register, tell them what you want to eat or drink then give your receipt to the counter clerk.  Have fun exploring Castroni.

Forno Roscioli S.A.S, di Roscioli PierLuigi & C. - Via dei Chiavari 34, Roma, between piazza navona and Campo de Fiori is this fantastic bakery, owned by the brother of my favorite restaurant Salumeria Roscioli.  Another great lunch spot or stop for a quick bite at dinner time too.  Fall in love with Roman Pizza, flat breads and desserts.  Pizzas here are different from the Napolitano famed pizzas but also delicious.  They also have a Tavola Calda (Hot Table) of meats and grilled veggies etc.  If you are there between Christmas and Easter pick up a few of their fabulous Panetone (and send me one)  This is a spot not to miss.

Sant' Eustachio Il Cafe' S.R.L. - If you don't love coffee, espresso, cafe or cappuccino now is the time to start.  The most talked about coffee in the world it would be a sin not to stop here for a cafe.  It is very close to the Piazza Navona.

*Remember number two on the list of pet peeves of Roman's is Tourists, typically American ones who order Cappuccino after 11am.
Cappuccino is a breakfast drink.
See my other entry "Pet peeves of Italians"

Moriondo & Gariglio di Minelli Pierina & C. SNC - Via Del Pie 'di Marmo N. 21/22, Boy that's mouthful! Of Chocolate to be sure!
Begun in 1850 in Torino in the service of the House of Savoy Moriondo is one of the finest chocolate houses of Europe and the world.  Time honored recipes handed down from generation to generation typify this fine house of chocolate.  If you love chocolate this is the Louvre of Chocolate, not to be missed.

Enjoy these little tidbits!














































Monday, August 17, 2015

Let's Go to Capri

If you enjoy relaxing by the pool with gorgeous views and you have money to burn at Capri's splendid Shops this is the Island paradise for you.  Capri town is stunning and the "Shopping Path" is pristine, peppered with fine shops and five star hotels, it reeks of elegance.  More humble Anacapri is elegant with a twist on commonality, more the locals spot but very enjoyable.  For me shopping like this is torture but professional shoppers like my niece, my sister-in-law and my friends the Weakley's this is Heaven on earth.  They can ploy away hours browsing and picking through designer shops just to be certain they step off the plane in America looking like movie stars.  I recall having purchased my first pair of Prada sunglasses in 1991, I paraded around Italy looking like George Hamilton and when I got off the plane in Washington DC I looked like Shecky Green in an Altman movie.  

The quintessential hotel in Capri is the Hotel Quisisana where everything is perfect, www.quisisana.com, the only bad thing about the Quissey as it is affectionately called by its pretentious, snooty guests are the guests themselves.  Threat yourself to a cocktail there at their bar and terrace on the Shopping Path.

I spent four days on Capri several years ago and stayed at Da Gelsomina all Migliara, dagelsomina.com in their five room hotel! The rooms were small and very simple but the people there are awesome and the restaurant serves the best food on the Island and maybe Italy.  Vegetables picked right from their gardens, wine from their vineyard and fresh pasta made every day by their grandma's!  They have a gorgeous infinity pool that over looks a spectacular view of the sea.  They apparently sell memberships to their pool, remember they only house 5-10 guests, because there are many locals there enjoying the weather and the awesome pool.  They also serve a light lunch in season at the pool and a full lunch in the restaurant.  Be sure to make a dinner reservations or you won't get in, and say hello to Gelsomina and Pasquale for me.  The charming people at Gelsomina will pick you up in Anacapri too.

The Blue Grotto is a must see for you no matter what your age.  The boat ride is fun and the grotto is like nothing you have ever seen.  If you are so inclined you can dive off your boat and swim til your hearts content.  There are boat rentals for just tours with groups, privately or you can rent your own boat at Marina Grande.

Buy your round-trip tickets to Capri the day before you leave from the kiosk at the ports in Sorrento, Napoli or Positano and plan to return on the second to the last boat.  I've heard many stories of the last boat being cancelled and people having to scramble to get a hotel room for the night.



Friday, August 14, 2015

Using Trains in Italy

I usually go to trenitalia.com to repurchase tickets for train travel in Italy.  The Freccia Rossa and Freccia Bianca are faster trains that make fewer stops.

Lets start from our arrival at FCO/Rome Fumicino.  Once you leave the customs area and exit go to the right and follow the signs to the trains.  Currently the train to Rome costs $14.00 or Euros and will get you there in 30 minutes or so.  The bus is half the cost and twice the trouble, I recommend not taking the bus.

If you are making a multi-city trip and returning home from Rome it is best to end your visit in Rome as you will have to be there your last night anyway.  You will lose a day if you park it in Rome for a few days when you arrive and then have to return again for a night. If you have half a brain you will find it easy to grasp this.

So lets assume your trip is two weeks long and you plan to visit Florence, Positano and Rome.  I suggest that upon arrival in Rome you take the train to the station, then having pre-purchased your train ticket to Florence you go directly there.  Remember your flight is going to arrive between 7AM and 9AM and you couldn't get in your hotel anyway.  You should get your ticket to leave for Florence 2 1/2 hour after your arrival at FCO.  Like you will get there earlier and might even make an earlier train but best be safe than sorry.  You have two options if you arrive early:  One try to change your ticket to an earlier train or my preference, just get on the earlier train and play dumb.  If you have a ticket that you can change without fee it normally won't be a problem.  I have done this several times, this is not AmTrak, the conductors are very nice and helpful.  You will arrive in Florence in less than 2 hours.

There are several types of tickets you can purchase.  I prefer business class and depending where I am going and when I will pay a little extra for an exchangeable ticket.  The sooner you buy your tickets the more reasonable is the pricing. 

Be careful at the train stations as there are gypsies who will attempt to help you with your tickets, bags, etc.  They are really looking for your wallet.  Be careful in all train stations and watch each other.

Pre-purchase your tickets because they will be cheaper and if you wait they will not be available when you want to go.  The TrenItalia site is tough to navigate so be patient.

After a few days in Florence you can take the train to Naples and then get a driver to take you to Positano or whichever city on the Amalfi Coast.  If you choose to go to Sorrento by train you will likely be changing trains in Naples and waiting etc.  I would just call Josephine at italylimousines.it she will hook you up! 



Thursday, August 13, 2015

Hotels vs AirBnB

Air BnB's are great in the states for long visits to just about anywhere in foreign countries but for s few days in each city I much prefer hotels, here's why.  Hotels provide innumerable services like making restaurant reservations.  When I travel I am particular about where I eat and like to make a reservation at least a week or two before I arrive.

So if I am in Naples and going to Rome I will give the desk clerk at my hotel a list of the restaurants at which I choose to dine including the name, phone number, number of people, date and time I would like to go as well as if I am flexible.  I am not going to suffer for nine hours on a flight to pick a random place to eat and only have a bad story with which to come home!

Hotels can easily arrange to have your laundry done, typically there is no premium on laundry services in Italy and it is back the next day.  If you are traveling for two weekend traveling to three cities you literally only need a 5-6 day supply of clothes.  Pack lightly, you will be carrying your luggage and lugging it on and off trains and in some cases up and down stairs.

Even three star hotels will call taxi cabs for you, arrange theater and tour tickets and help you get to ferries as well as trains and airports.

You'll have fresh towels and linens.  Most Air BnB's in Italy will have washer/dryers many all in one but trust me I may take your entire vacation to wash a piar of socks in one of these one gallon washer dryers.

The safety factor is huge.  At hotels there will be someone there when you arrive that is not going to rob you!  You will have a safe to leave your valuables, extra cash, jewelry and documents.  Your laptop or iPad can fit in the safe.  It is likely your hotel will be in a safe neighborhood that you can get to and from most times of day.  Recently a friend sent me a map showing the location of an Air BnB her friend had reserved and it was it a place I know to be very sketchy.  Your safety is worth a few extra dollars if it even cost a few dollars more.

Agriturismo's are a different story and I'll talk about them in another post.

Visiting Rome, Italy

I have visited Italy many, many times and typically fly to Rome and back because of it's central location and ease of traveling into the city by train.  I suggest not taking the bus because it will drop you off about two blocks from the station entrance and you'll have to schlep luggage off and onto curbs and cobblestone.  Limo service is also available for novice travelers but the train is really very simple.

For Limo service I use italylimousines.com, ask for Josephine and she will give you a very special price because you know me.  I get no kick backs for my referrals and Josephine would never pay one!
Josephine is also your go to person for car service in Rome, Naples and the Amalfi Coast.

When planning your trip through Rome you always want to end your list with a few nights in Rome because you will have to leave between 7 and 10 am.  So if you arrive in Rome and start your trip there you will lose a day on the end of your trip because you'll have to leave wherever you are to get back to Rome.  I will often arrive in Rome, train up to Umbria, then to Napoli and then back to Rome to finish my trip.  I have travelled there frequently and these days I do not stay there too long as I prefer entrusted areas in the South and on the Adriatic Sea where I am less likely to run into Americans and other tourists.

So before this entry gets too long here is my Restaurant list for Rome:

Salumeria Roscioli-(pronounced it roskolly) salumeriaroscioli.com , This is my favorite spot for dinner in Rome. It is a favorite of locals and typically you must have a reservation, don't count on getting in if you don't, particularly in the Spring/Summer/Fall tourist seasons.

Felice a Testaccio, feliceatestaccio.it, Romeo of Agata and Romeo's sent me here as it is his favorite neighborhood restaurant.  A little out of the center in one of Rome's very lovely neighborhoods.  Their table made Caccio e Pepe is a phenomenon, other dishes are also extraordinary.

Ristorante Ditirambo, ristoranteditirambo.it, Another nice little place very close to the Campo dè Fiori and Piazza Navona,  expect fresh pastas and local dishes. This is a nice little place and you will need a reservation.  It is closed for lunch on Monday's

Osteria da Fortunata, Via Pellegrino, 11, Roma,  +39 06 6066 7391, no website for these guys.  A nice little place with a lovely lady making fresh pastas in the window, terrific gnocchi and trenette, wonderful carbonara and other sauces.  Charming staff.  Make a reservation, better safe than sorry.

Agata e Romeo, agataeromeo.it,  This is a very important restaurant in Rome, if you are looking for fine dining this is the spot, it is elegant and delicious, a foodie paradise or perfect for that special occasion. the menu is always changing in this Michelin starred restaurant.

More on Rome and other places in Italy