Monday, September 28, 2015


Often when I leave Naples for the north I become sad because I love the south, the food screams at you and the people are full of life.  The food in Bologna does not scream it sings, from gentle sauces to delicate pastas Bologna is a mecca for the elegant and gentile.  I can't help but find my way there every other trip or so.  My friend Kristen told me she was going in  2000 and I thought, why?  Isn't it filled with communists and an industrial city, boy was I wrong.  When Kristen, husband John anther vivacious Mom Shirley returned and shared their stories of this charming elegant city I could not wait to get there!
I've been five or six times now and each time add a few details to my journey.  I've never taken a cooking class there, nor do I care to spend a precious day of my vacation learning to roll dough, I can do that here.
My latest trip was a blast, I traveled with my friend of 45 years Susan.  Susan is n easy traveler, she will report for departure on schedule (mine) and go anywhere, do any thing-just be certain she gets fed and she is happy.  I don't travel well with many, Susan is one I do.
To make things easy, I am going to list the everything so it will be easy to find and read.  Remember, have your hotel make all of your reservations as soon as you arrive.  If this will be your first stop email the hotel and ask them to have your reservations made for you a week before you get there. 

Hotel Corona D'Oro, Via Oberdan 12, 390051-74 57 611,,
A very nice 4 star hotel with great access to the city in a very central location.  The staff is charming and extremely helpful.  The group that owns this hotel also owns several others in the city that are very nice, my preference is this one and Hotel Orolgio which is on the square near the Duomo and the statue of Neptune.

Trattoria Soverina
Via G Oberdon 13A
telephone 051 224 418

We had wonderful food in Bologna but we ate here twice and found the food absolutely fabulous, I think Susan would agree.  These photos are of two dishes we shared and really enjoyed, the bolognese are known for their stuffed pastas and stuffed patrons.

A.F. Tamburini
Via Caprarie 1
40124 Bologna
Tamburini's is my favorite lunch cafeteria and Salumeria.
They serve an amazing assortment of lunch items including a few pastas, a few meats, many vegetables and salads, all cafeteria style. Their spectacular "deli" serves the most stunning cured meats and cheeses as well as pastas and platters.  When in Bologna I have lunch here at least twice.  There is also a fabulous wine bar that serves sliced prosciutto and cheeses with wonderful breads.  You can't go wrong at Tamburini's

Caffe' Pasticceria Zanarini
Piazza Galvani 1
This is a beautiful place to grab a cafe(espresso) or cappuccino(not after 11am unless you want to be spotted as a caffone).  Remember it's espresso not expresso (expresso is a bus)
Beautiful pastries and candies and just such a lovely place you'll wonder why anyone ever left this town for America and the likes of Starbuck's!

                                  Trattoria Anna Maria
Via Belle Arte, tel 051-26.68.94
       Is there a bad restaurant in Bologna?  If there is I have not found it!

Ca' Pelletti
Via Altabella 15D
tel. 051 26 66 29
Remember that this is noodle country so you are likely to find fresh noodles/pastas at every trattoria, typically stuffed as well.  Tortellini, Tortoni, Agnolotti, Ravioli.  It was one a beautiful cold day with light snow flurries that we found ourselves in front of 
Ca' Pelletti, we cruised by but there were too many smiling eating faces in there not to turn around and have lunch.  A very small place, tidy , colloquial but modern Ca' Pelletti was a perfect little spot with amazing food.  Our 33 euro lunch included a half bottle of wine, tortellini, Paglia fiena, eggplant parmigiana and bottled water.  It was delicious and the price was exceptional.

Buca Manzoni
Via manzoni 6G
tel. 051-271 307

Another little treat we found as we wandered around.  Filled with locals Buca Manzoni was one of only a few places opened on Sunday evening and was quite good.  Service was a bit slow but it was Sunday night and not too many people work.  The fare was very much similar to the other restaurants but his one served a nice Zuppa Inglese which is a Bolognese version of an English Triffle which combines custard, fruit and cake and is very typical of this city.  Pictured on the below is a Cotoletta all Bolognese or a veal cutlet with a bĂ©chamel sauce, another very typical dish.

I love Bologna, it is a beautiful city, the food is amazing, the people lovely and there are multiple side streets for shopping and walking through the city.  It has an Apple Store too!  It is very well known for it's stuffed pastas and cured meats.  
Consider a 30 minute train ride to nearby Modena or Emiglia Romana, both delightful walking cities.  Modena is home to Ferrari and to Michelin 3 starred Osteria Francescana by Massimo Bottura, if you are a foodie you must secure a reservation here at least a month in advance!
I'm not certain of all the sites in Bologna I have always been so busy just roaming around.  A popular tourist attraction is the Medical School Surgical Amphitheater which is very old and features hand carved wooden human bodies each one displaying different systems; muscles, skeletal etc.  Sounds erie but it is quite beautifully done and an amazing site to see.  The University of Bologna was the first University and Medical School as we know them to be in the world!

I'll post more on Bologna as I go through my journals but these few things should keep you from starving at least.  Buon viaggio!

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